MT. ROBSON EXPEDITION
Mt. Robson is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and
its summit elevation is 3954m. or 12969ft. It's located on
the western edge of the range, 100km west of Jasper in British
Columbia's Mount Robson Provincial Park. This large massif
is the first thing that moist westerlies hit after crossing
B.C., and this has resulted in a moist local microclimate.
At its base is temperate rainforest more typical of coast
BC, and its upper heights are cloaked in the massive glaciation
that makes it such a beautiful and challenging climb.
Brian’s trip attempts the the Kain Face on the N.E.
side of the peak, the first ascent route in 1916. Now it is
much steeper as the glaciers have changed. It is a serious
climb involving some objective hazards and whilst the climbing
is not extremely technical (45 - 55° snow and ice), conditions
and weather can increase the challenge considerably. The days
can be long and arduous, and the final summit push typically
takes 14 hours or more.
To increase the chance of success, we helicopter to the Rearguard
Meadows, by the Upper Robson Glacier, effectively avoiding
about 25 km, and 5000 feet elevation of heavy pack slogging
from the Fraser Valley. This allows for more focused energy,
and more time for summit attempts.
The serious nature of the climb demands a maximum of two
participants per guide.
DATES -
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Please call our office for your custom dates:
604.892.3570
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COST –
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$cdn 3,150/person
based on 2 :1 ratio (please inquire for private 1:1 ratio
rates) Includes helicopter flights, guiding, group equipment,
all permits, and food. Canadian residents
subject to GST tax. |
AGENDA –
day 1
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Afternoon meeting in
Jasper or Valemount (depending on where guests are arriving
from). Equipment review, and final preparation. |
day 2
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Fly to Rearguard Meadows near
the Upper Robson Glacier, climb as high as possible on
this seriously crevassed glacier and set up camp. Preferably
on the Resplendent Col at 2744m/9000ft. |
day 3
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Acclimatization and training
day. Possibly climb Mount Resplendent (3426m / 11,237ft.). |
day 4
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If the group is ready, climb
to the 'Dome Camp' at 3000m/9840ft. If not ready spend
another day acclimatizing and training. In this case go
to the 'Dome' on Day 5. |
day 5
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Summit attempt via Kain Face
route. Expect to be out for 14 hours. Leaving camp in
the very early hours of the morning we will head to the
base of the 'Kain Face' and commence 550m of climbing
on snow, ice or both with angles reaching 50 degrees.
From here the fun continues with the beautiful snow and
ice arete leading to the steep slopes circumventing the
'Helmet' and then, finally, the last section to the summit!
To descend we reverse the climb. |
day 6
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Spare day or second chance
for summit. |
day 7
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Final summit opportunity or,
if already successful, descend to the Rearguard Meadow,
or Berg Lake. |
day 8
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Fly out (if the weather is
bad it is possible to walk out via the Valley of a Thousand
Falls). This can be a long day, so make travel plans accordingly. |
If summit is gained early in the trip, the option exists
to depart the area early and spend some time climbing additional
routes in the Jasper area
Weather Note - Mount Robson is known for its variable
weather and it is important to realize that reaching the summit
is very weather dependent. If the weather is not suitable
on fly in day, it is possible we will delay the fly in and
spend a day or 2 in the much drier ranges in the Jasper area
acclimatizing on some of the peaks there. Options include
Mt. Colin, Mt. CR2, and Mt. Edith Cavell.
DIFFICULTY AND ABILITY LEVELS -
Although any attempt on Mt. Robson is a significant undertaking,
it is not necessary to be an expert mountaineer to come on
our trip. The main requirement is a reasonable degree of fitness
combined with some experience with crampons and ice axe.
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